Lucky You: Most of the Altimas and Maximas sold came with rather weak halogen projector headlights that don't show much in the way of forward lighting. Luckily for you, the Morimoto Retro-Quik system is designed as a direct bolt-on upgrade for a big performance boost inside the headlights of the 2013-2017 Altima and 2009-2017 Maxima models.
Bi-Xenon Projectors: Morimoto's most modern bi-xenon, the Mini H1 7.0, was an instant winner upon launch. Representing the first full overhaul of the Mini H1 since way back when the 1.0 came out, it's now one of the most advanced headlight projectors in the world today. Revised reflector optics paired with their curved cutoff shield produces one of the widest low beam patterns we've ever seen, and a high beam that will easily go the distance. Kuria Optic clear lenses maximize intensity throughout, and keep the cutoff line sharp, colorful, and attractive. New side-action solenoids are more than 3x stronger than the old and fussy vertically-sprung units. Result: Maximum light on the ground, zero glare to oncoming traffic for your Altima or Maxima headlights.
Mounting Hardware: 100% Engineered in the US. Laser cut from automotive-grade G10 fiberglass. The Retro-Quik brackets at the heart of the kit are designed to adapt the Morimoto Mini 7.0 Bi-xenon projectors directly in place of the unsophisticated stock units. Using the original mounting holes paired with new hardware, they are the beauty behind the kit that makes this bi-xenon upgrade an easy install. You're welcome.
Optional HID Ballasts: Designed in California by Morimoto’s engineer, Yoshi Ishida, the Morimoto XB 2.0 HID Ballasts are just as good looking on the outside as they are well-engineered on the inside. They are available in both 35w and 50w versions, use proprietary software by the pros at Hylux paired with packaging perfection from the masters at Morimoto. This is today’s most modern iteration of a model that has sold more than half a million units since inception, and we don’t think it can really get any better!
Optional H1 HID Bulbs: Homegrown by Morimoto to out-perform any alternatives on the market when installed in projector-based headlight…and it shows. We admit the latest generation XB HID bulbs are pretty impressive when compared to other bulbs, and even older Morimoto bulbs. At the heart of the XB bulbs is their perfectly-aligned 100% Philips quartz glass capsule that houses high quality halide salts from German-supplier Messer. In our annual lux comparison test, they produced nearly the same luminosity (intensity) as the industry benchmark Osram CBI bulbs at 5500K. No, you're not seeing things here, but yes you will be seeing everything at night.
Optional Relay Harness: As one of the most important parts in any HID lighting upgrade, don't skimp out when it comes to your wiring. It doesn't matter how good your ballasts are or how good your bulbs are, if your harness is a piece of crap, when it gives out your headlights are gonzo. The Morimoto HD Relay harness is easily worth the premium price compared to cheaper alternatives. With triple-sealed twin relays, 14ga. stranded copper wiring, over-molded fittings, and plug-n-play functionality, it will ensure everything functions properly and permanently from the original in-cabin controls. It’s easily the best headlight wire harness out there.
Optional High Beam Splitters: Double high beams?! whaaaat! Put simply, the optional Morimoto high beam splitters allow you to make this feature work easily without any cutting or splicing to the factory wiring by diverting power from the halogen bulb into the projector’s high beam solenoid, making them both work at the same time.
Optional Housing Sealant: Protection is priceless! When you're putting together a set of high-end headlights, the last thing you want is moisture in 'em the first time it rains outside. RetroRubber is the most effective way to make sure the original seal is fully restored. For the small price, why anybody wouldn’t prevent their new headlights from fogging up is beyond us. It’ll be the best twelve bucks you’ve ever spent.
Trusted: For more than a decade, we've worked hard to earn our killer reputation. Car guys world-wide know that TRS carries the internet's best selection of high performance automotive and powersport lighting products at the best prices, and we've got the best, most knowledgeable team of real enthusiasts to help back it up. If we sell it, then you bet we've put it to the test on our own cars, trucks, and bikes. Need a recommendation on parts for your project? Got a tech question? Wholesale inquiry? Contact Us
PROJECTORS: 2x Morimoto Mini H1 7.0
RQ BRACKETS / HARDWARE: 2x Custom G10 Fiberglass / Stainless
WARRANTY: 5 Years
OPTIONAL HID BALLASTS: 2x Morimoto XB35 AMP
OPTIONAL H1 HID BULBS: 2x Morimoto XB
OPTIONAL WIRE HARNESS: 1x Your Preference
OPTIONAL HIGH BEAM SPLITTERS: 2x Morimoto Splitters
OPTIONAL HOUSING SEALANT: 1x Morimoto RetroRubber
NISSAN MAXIMA: 2009-2017 Model Years
NISSAN ALTIMA: 2013-2017 Model Years
CERTIFICATIONS: Exceeds DOT requirements
OPERATING RANGE: -40C to +125C
XB BALLAST INPUT: 9-32VDC
XB BALLAST OUTPUT: 85VAC 35W
XB BALLAST MAX V: 25kV (at start-up)
XB35 BALLAST LIFESPAN: 2500 Hours
XB55 BALLAST LIFESPAN: 2000 Hours
3000K BULBS: Golden Yellow (~2800 lm)
4500K BULBS: Warm White (~3500 lm)
5500K BULBS: Pure White (~3400 lm)
6500K BULBS: Cool White (~3200 lm)
XB55 50w Ballasts: Not Compatible
Just got these installed. I feel like a few things have been overlooked on making this a 'complete' kit. Instructions where a bit vague. Instructions said to un-tighten the adjustment screw, or, back it all the way out and then pop the housing out of the socket, as the pictures showed the mounting screws where on the back of the housing. Not true, the screws were right there on the front. Just remove them without messing with the adjustment screw. But, since I did follow the instructions, I then had to mess with trying to re-align the light once done. I ordered the high beam splitter wire, it did not fit. It was close. It said 9005/H11 on it, my high beam bulb said 9006, I ended up pulling the pins out of the harness and taping them in the factory harness to make it 'work' since I had the bumper pulled off. I also bought the retro seam sealer stuff. Also not needed. I would have been there another 8 hours trying to get all the factory sealer off. It is very abundant and seals up again nicely.