Rivaled: A long standing debate in the automotive aftermarket...Morimoto, or Hylux ballasts? Often regarded as the "other" great in the HID lighting industry; Hylux has been building reputable parts for about as long as we can remember - you just couldn't buy them from TRS, until now!
Hylux 2A88 or A0050 Ballasts: Their powerful igniters are also capable of quick re-strikes without fail. Well designed circuitry and igniter setup results in a relatively fast warm up time for the HID bulbs when powered by a Hylux ballast, but without requiring much power. The 2A88 (35w) ballasts have an integrated error canceler, making them compatible with most European vehicles without any extra gear required to cancel "lamp out" errors. The A0050 (50w) ballasts will still require optional "CANBUS" harnesses if your vehicle is so equipped.
HID Bulbs: Homegrown by Morimoto to out-perform any alternatives on the market when installed in projector-based headlight…and it shows. We admit the latest generation XB HID bulbs are pretty impressive when compared to other bulbs, and even older Morimoto bulbs. At the heart of the XB bulbs is their perfectly-aligned 100% Philips quartz glass capsule that houses high quality halide salts from German-supplier Messer. In our annual lux comparison test, they produced nearly the same luminosity (intensity) as the industry benchmark Osram CBI bulbs at 5500K. No, you're not seeing things here, but yes you will be seeing everything at night.
Wire Harness: As one of the most important parts in any HID lighting upgrade; don't skimp out when it comes to your wiring. It doesn't matter how good your ballasts are. How good your bulbs are. If your harness is a piece of crap, when it gives out your headlights are gonzo. Morimoto’s harnesses are the best on the market and easily worth their premium price compared to cheaper alternatives. No matter which one is right for your application; with triple-sealed central relay packs, 14ga stranded copper wiring, over-molded fittings, and plug-n-play functionality; it will ensure everything properly (and permanently) works your vehicle’s original in-cabin controls
Optional Canbus Harnesses: Instead of a traditional relayed harness that draws power from the battery, Morimoto’s Standalone Canbus harnesses use two individual sub-harnesses to keep a load on the factory wiring. Recommended for vehicles that recognize when a bulb is out, these contain a series of capacitors and resistors to trick the car into thinking nothing has changed and help you avoid annoying "bulb out" warnings. We generally recommend them for use on most modern European applications instead of normal harnesses since they do a great job at providing stable power to the ballasts and canceling any warnings.
Trusted: For more than a decade, we've worked hard to earn our killer reputation. Car guys world-wide know that TRS carries the internet's best selection of high performance automotive and powersport lighting products at the best prices, and we've got the best, most knowledgeable team of real enthusiasts to help back it up. If we sell it, then you bet we've put it to the test on our own cars, trucks, and bikes. Need a recommendation on parts for your project? Got a tech question? Wholesale inquiry? Contact Us
BALLAST OUTPUT: 35w or 45w
BALLAST IGNITION VOLTAGE: 23kV
BALLAST INPUT V: 9-32V DCNOM
BALLAST INPUT: < 4.5A @ 12V DC
SYSTEM OPERATING RANGE: -40C to +85C
SYSTEM RATED LIFESPAN: 2,000 hours
3000K BULBS: Golden Yellow ~2800lm (each)
4500K BULBS: Warm White ~3500lm (each)
5500K BULBS: Pure White ~3400lm (each)
6500K BULBS: Cool White~3200lm (each)
Well constructed and all components have handled the weather perfectly fine. Zero problems within the last year and still operating like new. Far superior to any Ebay kit you could every buy and even comparable to the Morimoto systems, with the advantage of outputting an extra 10w. Note that there will be a bit of color washout on the bulbs since there is more power going to the bulbs.
Looks and works likes a quality product just, the warm up time is not good compared to morimoto which I had on past cars. I got 4500k, and starts realy blue like 6000k or more, and takes way to long to get at 4500k. Looks like I have something cheap installed.
I tried saving some money , but next time ill go with morimoto again =(