Dime a Dozen: Everybody wants H11 LED headlight bulbs today, but for all the wrong reasons. The diverse marketing tactics and the numbers war that's pushed onto ill-advised consumers is only getting more and more amusing to guys like us who actually know better. 100W? 10,000 lumens? Top-secret LED chip formula with seemingly exotic blend of rare materials or fancy coatings? Cool story, bro, but how do they actually work on the road at night? Isn't that what headlights are for?
2Stroke: Despite the fact that we haven't really had anything to offer in this niche, well, at least without risking our reputation selling our customers something that we truly didn't believe in: We respect the fact that Morimoto stood on the sidelines for so long, simply learning from everybody else's mistakes. In testing the 2Stroke system side by side with a multitude of other designs, we finally became excited about LED headlight bulbs for the first time. Against the odds and certainly our expectations; seeing is believing and we agree they actually work pretty darn well! Here's why.
Safety: You won't be putting yourself at risk while driving at night with the 2Stroke Bulbs. Prior to this, we could only ever comfortably recommend LED bulbs for use as auxiliary lighting, high beams, fog lights, etc. Here, we test a lot of automotive lighting products. (really, a lot) Until now, there were literally no options that would translate their luminosity out onto the road into a useful-enough beam pattern (and measured lux at a distance) to really call adequate for on-road use. The optics for the H11 2Stroke bulbs are unique compared to other sizes in the range in order to produce the best possible results in H11 headlights.
NOTE: Not for use in low voltage high/low beam DRL applications
Pretty Cool: Heat management is crucial for lumen maintenance and reliability. The 2Stroke bulb's internally opposed 1.5mm copper boards extract as much heat as possible from the area surrounding the LED chips and transfers it to the radiator at the back of the bulb. Yea yea, copper stuff and fans, seen that before...The key here though is that the 2Stroke's copper core has almost 3x more surface area than anything else, and it's fan is A) Mounted sideways so that it not only sucks cool air but also blows hot air out. B) It's a magnetic levitating unit, so there's no ball bearing to seize up and eventually fail. #winning
Size Matters: Due to the extra depth of most LED bulbs, they won't fit inside headlights with solid plastic rear housing caps. The 2Stroke is no different, but they come with specially designed housing cap extensions to solve that common problem. If the original halogen bulb is exposed it's not a problem, but if its internally wired and capped off: you would not be able to close the headlight back up without these caps. They look pretty cool too, with the embossed "2S" logo molded into the back.
Trusted: For more than a decade, we've worked hard to earn our killer reputation. Car guys world-wide know that TRS carries the internet's best selection of high performance automotive and powersport lighting products at the best prices, and we've got the best, most knowledgeable team of real enthusiasts to help back it up. If we sell it, then you bet we've put it to the test on our own cars, trucks, and bikes. Need a recommendation on parts for your project? Got a tech question? Wholesale inquiry? Contact Us
LED BULBS: 2x Morimoto 2Stroke
BULB BASE ADAPTERS: 2x H11 Fitment
LED DRIVERS: 2x Morimoto 2S Regulators
HOUSING CAPS/EXTENSIONS: 2x "2S" Rubber (60mm dia)
WARRANTY: 3 Years
SWAG: Morimoto Decal
LOW BEAMS: H11 Only (May fit some H9 or H8 with trimming)
HIGH BEAMS: H11 Only (May fit some H9 or H8 with trimming)
FOG LIGHTS: H11 Only (May fit some H9 or H8 with trimming)
DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS: 4V-9V non-pulsed
EXCLUSIONS: Toyota Side-Entry Projectors
CONFIRM FITMENT: Find my size!
LED EMITTERS: 2x CREE XHP50 per bulb
INTENSITY: 5000lm (raw; per bulb)
INPUT POWER: 34w (per bulb)
INPUT RANGE: 6-30V DC
CURRENT DRAW: 2.7A 12V DC
Since the accord comes with led DRL and led foglight I wanted to match it with my headlight. I was recommended by my brother to try TRS led kit and man am I glad I did! They are 5500k and match up perfect to the DRL and foglight.The output is day and night compare to my stocks headlight. I never trusted led as headlight because I only used HIDS but now forget about it. LEDS for the Win!
Addendum to my earlier review, now that I've put about 400 hours on these:
Reliability is perfect so far.
The high beam performance (range, uniformity, glare) is much better than H11 halogen, and on par with reasonably good HIDs. White-tail deer are visible at a whopping 300 metres (!) on a straight road.
I did manage to get them working for 6 V DRL. The anti-flicker link disables the whole circuit if it's in reverse polarity, but the LED driver itself will work in either polarity for 6 V DRL.
To make it work with this type of wiring:
- leave out the antiflicker links on both sides
- connect the drivers directly to the OEM harness with the preferred polarity for full high beam (i.e. latches aligned)
Thus, I get both high-beam-as-DRL (in reverse polarity at 6 V) and true high-beam (in normal polarity at 12 V). This does mean that when in DRL mode there is a slight flicker (in sync with the alternator coils) at low engine RPM; it smooths out above 900 RPM.
Not sure if this is a Morimoto recommended way to connect them, but it's the only way they work properly on the Mazda, and they're running cool and reliable so far.
All I Can say is WOW!!!! Glad i went this route... Jeep did not come with HID so i bought and a set and had numerous issues with it upgraded to this and very happy don't have a flickering issue and also lights work even on automatic mode... 100% recommend
I ordered the 2 stroke LED to replace some HID's that I bought and didn't work. Installation literally took me 5 min per side and there was no relay that had to be wired up. The DRL's, on these Colorado's are ran through the low beams and run off a different voltage compared to the voltage when the headlights are turned on automatically. The HID kit I had purchased would not work because of the 2 different voltages. These LED's work perfectly, both during the day and at night, without any buzzing noise. The light output is 100% better than stock. A piece of advise, the location of the bulb socket is not centered to the dust cap. Instructions say to drill a hole to add the dust cap extenders. Because of the offset of the bulb socket, the dust cap extenders do not work. You have to leave the dust covers off entirely. Overall I am very happy with the purchase, installation, and performance and would recommend these to anyone wanting to upgrade their factory bulbs!
HOLY CRAP! These are SUPER BRIGHT!! These LED bulbs are so awesome, I have always been skeptical on buying LED headlight bulbs because I have always been a big HID guy, but not anymore these are unreal. I did a lot of research before choosing to make the switch from HID to LED and I read a lot of people complaining that LED does not throw light as far as an HID setup and I have to completely disagree these 2stroke bulbs throw beautiful light far down the road. I also do not have projectors on my truck just regular headlight housings. The 6000k color looks just perfect. I am with out a doubt going to buy the 2strokes for my high beams. Thanks again TRS and Morimoto!
For some reason when I installed this into my 17 CRV, it blows away the HIDs. I guess it depends on the light position along with the lens to make this a perfect combination. Thank you RetroFit.
There is a good cutoff with the projectors, very similar throw distance (2-3 car lengths) compared to the halogens, but the wide angle is very noticeable, puts the stock halogen fogs to shame which is an added benefit for those who don't have fog lights. Compared to the Morimoto HIDs on the same vehicle distance and brightness is slightly less, but again the led wide throw, less power usage, and doesn't get too hot.
One note to the engineers: the connection between the adapter and the H11 OEM connection snaps together but still loose in that when testing I wondered why the light didn't turn on until I reseated the connection. Using electrical tape hopefully that would prevent any bumps from making it loose.
Again comparing to ease of install, literally plug and play. Compared to the morimoto HIDs, similar size ballast but 1 less wire running back from one ballast to another. Compared to Acura jewel led lights, Acura is not as wide, but brighter and throws farther. Obviously OEM is better, but not bad for a simple conversion.
Would like it to be brighter but for longevity I would choose this again.
Ordered a set of these for my friends 2016 Mazda 3 Sedan. Great output. Color looks great. Easy to install, his low beams didnt need anything else.
I did have a problem with one bulb dying out on me, but TRS support was great and got us back up and running quickly.
I have this kit installed into an 2018 Subaru WRX and have some interesting problems. Whenever the LED lights are turned on, it introduces interference or "static" into the radio. It goes away immediately once you turn the lights off. Not sure what is causing it, but perhaps the LED driver. The lights looks great when looking at it from outside of the car. Great color and cutoff. However, if you're looking for long reach performance of HID's, this will not satisfy your needs. Even behind projectors, it floods the immediate foreground with intense light, but it quickly dies off further out. Makes rural driving a bit difficult without high beams.
Vehicle: Mazda3 Sport (2014, BM)
High beam: 9005 in straight reflector, 2Stroke bulb
Low beam: H11 in projector, 2Stroke bulb
Comments on installation:
Reasonably easy and straightforward. The bulbs themselves are extremely well built.
The drivers are polarity sensitive, but fittings for halogen bulbs can be either polarity (or reversible polarity, as is the case with many common high beam / DRL dual-function setups that run the two bulbs independently at +12 V each for high beam, or in series at -6 V each for DRL). The fittings that came with the kit will fit in either orientation, but only lock properly one way. (In the Mazda's case, they lock with the correct polarity for -6 V DRL, a mode which these bulbs don't support, but have to be reversed and secured with zipties for +12 V high beam.)
The cable harness is an ugly, unprofessional mess. From bulb to driver, it's fine. But then the driver has a pigtail, which connects to another pigtail from the anti-flicker capacitor, which then has yet another pigtail, which then passes through a *fourth* pigtail to connect to the original plug. It doesn't look or feel like OEM quality.
Comments on performance:
Great so far. The low beam pattern from the projectors is not quite as clean a cutoff as with the H11 halogen, but it also gives better coverage on the extreme outer edges. The high beam pattern is excellent.
They DO NOT work on low voltage DRL circuits. The marketing copy and the specifications chart conflict on this point. The marketing copy is correct; they do not turn on at all when the circuit is in 6 volt DRL mode.
Suggestions to manufacturer:
Get rid of the external anti-flicker link and just put that capacitor on the main driver board. Set up the driver board so it can accept either polarity, and will run at reduced brightness when given a low-voltage input. Mould a 900* style connector directly into the driver housing, like you've done with the connectors on the Elite HID ballasts, and use compact rigid adapters on that to allow different styles of OEM headlight connector to be plugged into it. All of that, if implemented, would make these a true OEM-quality upgrade option.