TRS Tech
Technical and Parts Related Questions
What is the difference between Philips and Morimoto bulbs?
They're both brand new, high quality D2S bulbs that can be used in a high performance retrofit. When shopping for a D2S bulb, it's important to consider a couple main things. A) The precision in the alignment of the capsule, and B) the mixture of the halide salts used in that capsule. Both the Philips and Morimoto bulbs use a metal base frame to ensure the glass capsule is aligned in precisely the correct position inside your projector, not tilted up/down or side/side. This will translate to a beam pattern that is in focus to maximize the performance potential of your setup. Second, the mixture of halide salts used inside the Philips and Morimoto bulbs is very similar - which translates to both model's excellent reliability rating , and consistency in their luminosity and Kelvin rating.
Can I use 35w Morimoto or Philips bulbs with 55w ballasts?
Yes, it will work fine but the life expectancy of the bulb will be reduced. When doing so, we will only honor the warranty on these bulbs if they are used with our 55w Greddy ballasts.
What is the Morimoto brand and why can't I find any information on them?
Morimoto is our house brand of high quality retrofitting components that have been engineered to OEM-strict specs. We will only add an item to the Morimoto line if it passes stringent quality control standards and will last, look, and perform as well as a high-end OEM brand such as Philips or Denso. If you want a set of $20 "eBay special" ballasts or bulbs that will burn out next week, go ahead and waste your money now. The Morimoto parts cost significantly more to produce in the first place, and although you'll pay more for them compared to generic, you also save considerably over the OEM's we sell and still get the same quality.
What is the difference between "value" and "premium" shrouds and clear lenses?
Value items will have a couple very minor surface imperfections such as a tiny scratch or scuff. These defects are purely cosmetic, and will not affect the performance or usability of that part at all, guaranteed. Perfectionists will appreciate the strict quality control, as only pristine parts pass for "premium".
How do I connect my wire harness?
Please refer to TRS Tech: Wire Harnesses Explained
Why is there only one input connection on my relay wire harness?
This is normal, as your factory output socket is now only used to trigger the relay control box to turn on the low/high beams and not actually power the headlights. There is virtually no strain on your factory harness, and you should simply tape off and tuck away the other output.
When installing projectors, what side should be on the bottom?
The light cutoff shield should be on the bottom. The aspheric projector lens reverses the image of light onto the road, so the open half inside the projector should actually go on top. As a simple rule of thumb for all bixenons, the solenoid goes on the bottom.
How do I install my CCFL angel eyes?
Typically there are two popular methods for installing our angel eyes. You can either use a few dabs of clear silicone glue to literally stick the CCFL ring to the shroud. The silicone should dry perfectly clear, which will be hard to notice from more than a foot away. A second, more reliable method involves drilling several tiny holes around the face of the shroud and then threading the CCFL ring onto it using some very thin metal wire or even tooth floss. It is recommended that you use the smallest diameter drill bit available to do this.
How do I attach the shrouds to my projectors?
Most retrofitters including lots of professional shops use either JB weld epoxy or clear silicone glue to permanently affix the shrouds to their projectors. Both do well at resisting heat, but the silicone stays flexible, will not crack over time from vibrations etc like JB weld might.
Can I re-use my HID kit with a retrofit?
Yes, you can use our AMP/D2S ballast adapters to convert your existing HID kit ballasts to be compatible with D2S bulbs (which is the bulb type that all of our projectors require)
What kind of projectors do I need for my car?
there are no projectors designed specifically your Dodge Stratus, Honda Civic, Toyota Tundra etc. Retrofitting is the process of taking a projector system and simply making it fit into your housings. There will be cutting and other custom work involved in the process, and though you do have a variety of options available for compatible parts- there are limitations due to size in some applications. (ie fitting an LS430 or Q45 projector into a new Civic is not going to work) Best answer here, if you are unsure - contact us.
If my car uses an H7, 9006, H11, H4 (etc) bulb, how is it possible to use projectors that are made for D2S bulbs?
There are a couple intermediary components that convert your original headlight sockets to be compatible with your new xenon or bi-xenon projectors. First, a relay wire harness will plug into your existing headlight output socket. You should specify your original halogen bulb type when buying a harness. When you turn on your headlights, the relay harness will click on - drawing power from the car battery and sending it out to the HID ballasts. These ballasts will have outputs that will twist onto and ignite the D2S bulbs.
If my car has 1 bulb for low and high beam, what kind of projector should I use?
To retain full functionality of your low/high beams and the ability to "flash" the headlights - you must use a bi-xenon projector in this case.
If I have a separate halogen high beam bulb in my housing, can I still use a bi-xenon? How would I wire it?
Yes, though you technically only need a low beam projector (like a TSX, RX, or S2K-R) you can still use a bi-xenon projector. This way, you will have both a HID high beam and your original halogen high beam that will work together when the stalk inside the car is pulled. To wire it, you should simply run the 2 wires (+/-) that come out of the back of the projector over to the halogen high beam side of your housing and use some crimp on wire taps to splice them in with the +/- wires that power your halogen high beam bulb.
My bi-xenon solenoid is not working, what do I do?
We recommend checking a few things including the connection to the solenoid and the order of the pins in the input socket on your wire harness to ensure they're wired up properly. If the solenoid is sticking or trying to pull the shield down, the projector should be disassembled and the assembly tweaked to allow for full movement. We recommend testing the solenoids before final installation to avoid having to take apart your retrofit.
What are the alcohol pads that are included with the light bulbs for?
You should thoroughly clean your D2S bulbs before finally installing them into the projectors. Wipe the glass, return wire, and base clean of any contaminants such as dust, finger prints, etc. This will help ensure their longevity and the performance of your setup.
What parts do I need for a retrofit?
Projectors, ballasts, bulbs, and a wire harness are essential. We also recommend a set of shrouds/bezels to enhance the finished looks as well as a clear lens upgrade if applicable.
What is the difference between 4300K, 5000K, 6000K bulbs?
4300K is a slightly off white, 5000K is pure white, and 6000K has a slight tinge of blue. All OEM applications use 4300K bulbs. As you move up the Kelvin scale, your lumen rating will drop a bit, this is why we do not recommend or sell bulbs over 6000K.
I want the brightest output, what Kelvin rating for the bulbs should I choose?
4300K -there is an inverse relationship here, so as the K (Kelvin) rating goes up, the Lumen rating goes down. It is a common misconception that K is a measure of intensity/brightness - that is completely false. It is only a measure of the color temperature.
Should I use 55w ballasts?
55 watt ballasts will provide you with more light intensity compared to conventional 35w system, however that comes with added heat and less reliability. If you are willing to sacrifice these things for a little more light, we do have a 55w ballast option available. However, TRS typically recommends going with a 35w setup for better reliability, less heat, and still more than enough light output when coupled with high performance projectors and good quality bulbs. All OEM applications use 35w.
What items are necessary for retrofitting?
You will need basic hand tools such as flat blade/Philips screw drivers, a Dremel or other rotary tool with a variety of cutting/smoothing attachments, a heat source like an oven or a heat gun, some free time, your brain, your hands, and a variety of other misc materials that can be sourced from the local hardware store like nuts/bolts, epoxies etc.
my FX-R projectors have 2 red wires, which one is the positive and which one is the ground?
It does not make a difference; the solenoid should work regardless of how you wire them.
What is the difference between LHD and RHD FX-R projectors?
LHD projectors are designed for use in countries such as North America where oncoming traffic drives on the left side of us. RHD projectors are designed for use in countries such as the UK or Australia where oncoming traffic drives on the right side of us. The difference is in the beam pattern emitted from the projector: LHD projectors produce a beam that is lower on the left side and higher on the right side to maximize down the road visibility while avoiding glare to oncoming traffic. The shape of the beam is opposite for RHD projectors of course.
What is the difference between an FX-R projector and the FX35 projectors?
FX-R projectors are brand new, aftermarket projectors that have been designed specifically for the purpose of a custom headlight retrofit. They're slightly smaller, have mounting holes conveniently cast into the corners of their body, and have the clear lens upgrade already done to them. They're ready for retrofitting right out of the box. The FX35/45 bi-xenons are used OEM parts that have been removed from an Infiniti FX SUV. They're also good performing projectors, but need a bit of trimming before being retrofit-ready, and do not come with the clear lenses pre-installed and optimized. Output wise, many retrofitters consider the FX-R's to be better for both low and high beam characteristics.
Who is behind the FX-R projectors?
TRS worked in cooperation with our partners and their engineers in China to develop the FX-R bi-xenon projector. It is manufactured in China, and we do not have world-wide exclusive rights to sell the projector. It was a project that we invested in, but did not fund completely and therefore only have exclusive dealership rights in North America for it. Because the FX-R projector has leaked through to other competing vendors, TRS will develop and manufacture the S2K-R completely within the United States.
I have OEM Infiniti FX bi-xenon projectors, what clear lens upgrade is better; the TSX-R or FX-R lens?
The FX-R clear lens is developed specifically for the OEM FX bi-xenon projectors, which will make the upgrade easier. It is a direct drop in replacement with no spacing necessary, and only very small (if any) adjustments necessary to the cutoff shield position. The TSX-R lens can also be applied with great results, but will require a bit more work to achieve these results such as lens spacing and a permanent modification to the cutoff shield. Therefore, we recommend the FX-R lenses since they're easier to install, cost less, and will make your beam pattern as bright, colorful, and defined as possible.
What is the difference between Philips 85122 and 85122+ bulbs?
Each vendor has their own opinion (or BS story really) on what the difference is between 85122 and 85122+ bulbs. Let TRS put this mystery to an end once and for all:85122 is Philips' older version of the 85122+ - it is not as bright and is more prone to what's known as color shifting. 85122+ has 300 more lumens to start with (its brighter) and is less prone to color shifting. Color shifting means that as the bulb ages, it will not only change from a slightly off-white 4300K color temperature to a more bluish 5000K color, but it will also lose some of its luminosity (it will dim)both start life as a 4300K bulb, so when new will look the same on the road. After use for about a year, the 85122 will be more whitish/blue and lose a bit of intensity, whereas the 85122+ will stay in "like new" condition for longer.