DIY Installation Guide

Projectors: FX-R 3.0 Guide

  • — Bi-Xenon: FX-R 3.0

  • — Bi-Xenon: FX-R Stage III Kit

  • — Bi-Xenon: FX-R Stage IV Kit

  • — Bi-Xenon: PNP Upgrade

Cutting Involved
  • Cutting involved:
  • Yes
3 hrs Install Time
  • Time to install:
  • 3 hours (estimate)
Tools Required
  • Tools Required:
  • — Dremel Tool w/ Cutoff Wheel
  • — Paint (optional)
  • — Canned Air
  • — Safety Goggles
  • — Safety Gloves
  • — Microfiber Towel
  • — Oven (gas or electric)
Materials Required
  • Materials Required:
  • — JB Steel Stik
  • — JB Kwik
Warning: By reading this document, I agree that it is only intended to be used as an educational guide. The Retrofit Source, Inc. makes no guarantee on any finished results, nor are they to be held responsible for any damage, misuse, or personal injuries. Use at your own risk. If you are unable to clearly understand and adapt the information below to your own application, professional installation is available and recommended.

1. Halogen Output

Once you have the housing opened, re-Install the open unmodified headlight back on the car. Then, turn on the halogen bulb, and use the blue painters tape to mark the position of the steps and the height of the beam on a wall (preferably 20-25ft away) It may be blurry, so use your best judgement. Once you have done so, you can remove the headlights from the car. Do not move the car after this step.

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2. Reflector Removal

Most headlight housings use two screws to pivot the reflector bowl. These screws can be backed unscrewed to release the reflector bowl. As a third axis for the bowl, there's a pivot point for the reflector bowl that must also be removed with the reflector bowl. This is easiest when the headlight is warm so you may want to heat up at least this portion of the headlight with a heat gun to ease the removal of the reflector.

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3. Initial Cut Line

The next step is to draw a roughly 2" hole of where your initial cut will be in the reflector. You may need to later enlarge this hole to fit the projector deep enough to basically "bottom out" the flanges of the projector against the reflector.

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4. Make your cut!

Be patient as you cut and take your time.

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5. test fit the projector

Test fit the projector to ensure it fits the reflector. Adjust hole shape and size accordingly as it will always differ based on projector and geometry of the headlight reflector. Recessing the projector further back into the housing generally leads to a better finished look, but your best judgement should be used here.

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6. Clean up

Once you have verified desired fitment of the projector, clean the reflector with compressed air or distilled water and only your clean fingertips, then dry with compressed air or a clean microfiber towel and light pressure.NOTE: If you wish to paint your reflectors, do so after they are cleaned in this step.

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7. Install

Re-install reflector in housing and housing onto vehicle.NOTE: now is a good time to go ahead and set up your HID system on the vehicle and ensure it works properly.

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8. Epoxy Putty

NOTE: Read Step 7 prior to proceeding with this step.

Knead together two or three small balls of JB Steel Stik epoxy putty to about 3/4" spheres. Affix these around the cut hole where the projector contacts the reflector. This is used to temporarily tack the projector into place during alignment.

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9. Alignment

Note: This is the most important step. Ensure the projector is aimed perfectly in this step or you will need to re-do this step. There is no opportunity to correct poor rotational alignment after this step.

Re-using your original taped cutoff line as a reference, you will push the projector into the putty to allow solid contact with it, while aiming the projector cutoff at that taped mark. To illuminate the projector, you will use a compatible and functional HID system. Once tacked in, we recommend holding it securely while illuminated for 5-6 minutes as the putty hardens with safety gloves. The heat of the HID bulb being on cures the putty faster than turning the bulb back off.

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10. Aluminum tape

Once the projector cools and the putty has hardened, you can remove the reflector bowl from the headlight housing again. Using aluminum tape, cover all of the openings between projector and reflector.

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11. Go mad with glue

Mix together plenty of JB Kwik or JB Weld epoxy and cover the surrounding area of where the projector protrudes out from the reflector.

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12. Test solenoid

As part of the installation process, we recommend checking the free movement of the cutoff shield shield assembly. We do not recommend touching the shield assembly unless absolutely necessary. Because the shield is a thin metal, it can often get bumped out of alignment during installation. To test the solenoid and movement of the shield assembly, you can use a 9V battery to the wires coming off of the solenoid. We recommend doing this approximately 40-50 times per projector. If it doesn't have any issues now, it likely never will.

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13. Shroud Installation

In the final step inside the lights, you will install the shrouds over the projectors. Further information on this process can be seen here.

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14. Assemble

To complete your installation once the epoxy is dry, you can click the reflector bowl back into the headlight and rid all surfaces of lint, fingerprints, and dust. Immediately prior to re-installing the front clear lens of the housing, we recommend using canned air or an air compressor to blast out any remaining dust. After this, you can seal up the housing in the oven again. For more information about resealing headlights, check out this video on YouTube.

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15. Wiring the Solenoid

The two wires of the solenoid pigtail need to be clicked into the provided bare connector. NOTE: The polarity is specific, so be sure to install the wires in the specific orientation shown at right.

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16. final Alignment

To maximize usable output on the road, reference our aiming guide

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