• Dremel tool
• Sanding drums for Dremel
• Cutting discs for Dremel
• Rotozip bits for Dremel
• Flat blade screwdrivers
• Philips screwdriver
• Clear silicone sealant
• 8” screws and nuts for them
• 4 "L" Brackets
• Construction Adhesive/Epoxy (like JB weld)
• Compressed air (for cleaning)
• Shop towels
• A brain

Note This procedure will only work well with headlights that have reflectors with a flat bottom.

Step One: Take your headlights out of your car.

Step Two: you need to take your headlights apart. First remove any rubber seal around the edge, and any screws that may be holding the lens onto the housing. Put these in a safe place for re-installation later. If your headlights are like 90% of the newer ones out there, you can just bake them in the oven to get them apart. This will loosen the glue between the front clear lens and the rear of the housing. Personally, Pre-heat the oven to 260 degrees, and put 1 light headlight on the lower rack at a time. Leave it in there for no more 7 minutes. You dont want to place it too close to the heat source! Don't worry about the lights melting though, unless you really screw up here you're lights will be okay.

Step Three: once you take the headlight out of the oven (using oven mitts- it will be hot!) place the headlight on a safe non-slip surface, (and one that wont scratch up the lens). Use a couple medium flat blade screwdrivers to pry apart the headlights. Stick one screwdriver in between the lens and the back of the housing and pry it apart. Once you get the first pry in, work around the headlight with the 2nd screwdriver. Once the lens is pretty loose, you can just pull it off (still being careful not to burn yourself on the hot glue). If the glue gets stringy, just tuck any loose strands into the housing or onto the edge of the lens.

Step Four: at this point you should be looking at you headlight with the front lens off, the trim inside the headlight is probably attached to the lens. You should put that aside so you dont scratch it up or anything with any tools.

Step Five: look the rear of the housing with the halogen reflector still in it. There should be a couple aiming screws on the back of the housing. Most of them use either a screwdriver, or an Allen wrench to adjust them. You're going to want to get the reflector out of the housing completely so you can retrofit it. This is where the aiming screws come in. you want to back out those all the way so that eventually the reflector will just completely come out of the back of the housing. They basically just work like big screws, so un-do 'em. You should be un-doing 2 screws on the back of the housing, but after theyre all the way out, you may notice that the reflector is still attached to the housing by a ball in socket type mount. Most of the time it is safe to pull the reflector off of this mount and just popping it back on later, but if you feel like yours might break, they usually have screws on them somewhere that you can undo.

Step Six: put the halogen reflector aside and pick up your projector that you'll be using. In this case the projector being used is an E46 Bi-xenon made by Bosch/AL. Take your 2 L brackets and mount them to the bottom holes on the projector using 2 nuts and bolts. Make sure that they both sit flat on a surface, theyre not crooked. Also make sure to tighten the hell out of those bolts holding them on. If there's material on your projector blocking the L-mounts from sitting straight, trim it away with your dremel. After everything is tightened up, cut the excess screw off the back so it doesn't get in the way later.

Click to enlarge.

Click to enlarge.

Click to enlarge.

Step Eight: You now need to cut out the back of the original reflector so you can fit the projector onto it. Start by marking the back of the reflector with a permanent marker where you want to cut. A good place to start would be by just removing the hump that the halogen bulb used to plug into, and maybe ¾" of an inch extra around that for some play room.